Make your own M1 SLED!


Click here to download the drawing. Print a copy for reference.
Visits since 11 July 2010


Stack up whatever is handy to get a sharp pencil point 9/16 above your work surface.
A couple of note pads worked for me.


Draw a line on both sides of the clip.

Get the pencil point 1" above the work surface and mark a line on one side of the clip only.



On the side with the 9/16 line only, mark down from the top 1-1/8".

On the other side mark the 9/16 line down 1-1/2" and the 1" line down 1".

Cut single line side down to the 1-1/8" mark.
I use a cut-off wheel in a hand grinder. The width of the cut isn't critical.

Cut off the corner. The cut should be tangent to the rear radius and pass through the center of the dimple.

Turn the clip over and cut about 1/8" from the top front corner. You want to leave a little of the radius on the clip.

Now cut the two slots to the 1" and 1-1/2" marks.

Use a needle nose piler to flatten out the bend between the two cuts.

Then bend the the tab out about 15 degrees.

Mark the bent tab 1.375" (1-3/8) up from the bottom.
This dimension is critical.
Too short and the bolt closes on your fingers.
Too long and the bolt won't close at all.

Cut off above the 1.375 line.
If you leave it a bit long, you can grind it down, little by little, until it works.

Now smooth off the sharp corners.

With the bolt locked back, place the clip in the rifle.
Push the clip down, but don't push the follower, until the tab on the clip snaps into the receiver locking it in place.
Using a fired case, roll the case into the top right position in the clip. Keep you thumb flat and to the rear.
If everything is right, pulling back on the operating handle and releasing will cause the bolt to chamber the round.
Pulling the operating handle to the rear should extract and eject the case and lock the bolt back.

This design can be removed from the rifle by hand without any tools.
(This is good in case you forgot to remove it before a rapid fire stage!)
With the bolt locked back, press inward on the tab shown by the pencil to release the locking tab from the receiver.
Lift the SLED out of the rifle.

If your thumb is too far forward and pointed down, you can catch that release tab under you nail for a case of Type II M1 Thumb.

Once you have your SLED working smoothly, you will enjoy using it for single load shooting.
If you compete, be sure to remove it after you finish a slow fire stage.
More than once I found the SLED still in the rifle when commanded to "Load two rounds!"